Portugal City Travel Guide: Caldas da Rainha
Caldas da Rainha
Caldas da Rainha ("Queen's Spa) or just Caldas to locals is a spa town in the Estremadura with a population of less than 30,000 people.
The town is part of the district of Leiria and can be reached in about 70 minutes by express bus from Lisbon.
As well as its historic healing waters, Caldas is known for its ceramics, thanks to Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro (1846-1905; his name is also spelled "Bordallo") and to a lesser extent embroidery.
Ceramics are used for the town's street signs and also at the bus station.
The is also a fun fruit, vegetable and flower market daily in Praça da República known as Praça da Fruta (Mercado de Rua Caldense), with more household goods on offer nearby during the Monday market.
History
The town is named after Queen Leonor, the wife of King João II. She supposedly spent time here for treatment, was cured and founded a hospital in 1484. The Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor still survives and is one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the world.
Caldas da Rainha grew up around the hospital and spa, reaching its heyday as a healing resort in the 19th century.
The town has since become famous for its ceramics, known as louça das Caldas after Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro and his brother Feliciano established their Faianças Artísticas Fabrica Bordallo Pinheiro in 1884.
Output consists of tableware in the shape of fruits, vegetables (in particular cabbage), and animals. Figurines depicting Zé Povinho, a working class everyman character prevalent in Bordalo Pinheiro's painting and drawings is another specialty.
Caldas also has a rather bizarre tradition of ceramic penises (caralhinhos) which dates back to the late 19th century.
Attractions
Praça da República is the main square and hosts the morning market. There are several cafes here where you can relax and take in the scene.
The Parque Dom Carlos I is a lovely green space just off Rua de Camões with a lake with boats, tennis courts and the Museu de José Malhoa, one of the town's nine museums of note.
The museum exhibits the paintings of locally-born José Malhoa (1855-1933) famous for his scenes of country life.
Along with his friend Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro (brother of Rafael), Malhoa is considered a pioneer and master of Naturalism in Portuguese painting. Both were members of the so-called Grupo do Leão (see below).
Malhoa's most famous paintings are considered O Fado (1910) and Os Bêbados (1907).
Also on display are works by contemporary artists of the so-called Grupo do Leão as they met in a brewery and beer hall in Lisbon called the Leão de Ouro (Golden Lion). These include such artists as the Pinheiro siblings, António da Silva Porto, Henrique Pinto and João Rodrigues Vieira. In the basement is an exhibition of ceramics by Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro.
Alos of interest is the ornate Chafariz das Cinco Bicas, a Baroque fountain dating from 1748.
Museums & Churches
Close to the Faianças Artísticas Fabrica Bordallo Pinheiro is the Museu de Cerâmica with more ceramics by Bordalo Pinheiro and his craftsmen on display in an historic house and gardens - the Quinta Visconde de Sacavém.
Other more minor museums in town are the Museu do Ciclismo with information on cycling in Portugal, the Museu Barata Feyo with works by the sculptor Barata Feyo (1899-1990) and the Centro de Artes, which includes the Atelier-Museu João Fragoso with works by the minimalist sculptor João Fragoso (1913-2000) and the Espaço Concas with paintings by Maria da Conceição Nunes (1946-1991) aka Concas.
The Museu do Hospital e das Caldas da Rainha within the Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor is a small facility dedicated to the history of the spa. There are ceramics (of course), clothing, paintings, and medical instruments.
Churches in town include the beautiful Nossa Senhora do Pópulo near the spa, which is classified as a National Monument. Built in the 15th century it was the chapel of the Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor and has elements of Manueline architecture. The single nave church has a vaulted ceiling and azulejos tiling.
Other places of worship include the Ermida de São Sebastião and the Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição.
Nearby
Places of interest nearby on the Atlantic Coast include the resort of Foz do Arelho and the scenic Óbidos Lagoon (Lagoa de Óbidos).
Foz do Arelho is 8 km west of Caldas and out of season (July and August) is little visited. The lagoon is still fished by local fishermen and is also a haven for bird life.
Caldas da Rainha Tourist Office
Tourist Office of Caldas da Rainha
Praça 25 de Abril
Caldas da Rainha
Tel. 262 839 700.
Getting to Caldas da Rainha
Train Travel in Portugal
Getting to Caldas da Rainha Station by train from Lisbon is slower and less direct than by bus. The train from Lisbon usually requires changes at Agualva-Cacem and Mira Sintra-Melecas. There is a direct train, however. Journey time is about 2 hours to 2 and a half hours from Sete Rios.
There are trains on the line to Óbidos, Sao Mamede, Paul, Bombarral, Torres Vedras and Mafra from Caldas heading south. Going north on the Linha do Oeste are Salir do Porto, Sao Martinho do Porto, Famalicao da Nazaré, Valado and Leiria.
From Sintra Station in Sintra change at Agualva-Cacem and Mira Sintra-Melecas (over 2 hours in total).
It is easiest to arrive here, however, by bus from Lisbon (see below).
Car Travel in Portugal
From Lisbon take the A8 highway north to Caldas da Rainha. Journey time should be about 1 hour depending on traffic from Lisbon Airport.
Bus Travel in Portugal
On the bus, it takes 1 hour, 20 minutes from Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha. Take the Lisbon metro to Campo Grande Station, then a Rapida Verde bus to Caldas da Rainha which runs through Bombarral and Óbidos Frequent buses run from 7 am to 13.30 am on weekdays.
See here for further information: rodoviariadooeste.pt
Portugal Hotel & Hostel Accommodation
Caldas da Rainha offers a small range of accommodation from rentals to high-end hotels.
The summer months of July and August are the peak season so you will need to book early to guarantee a room at this time.
Some recommendations are the SANA Silver Coast Hotel, the Hotel Dona Leonor and the apartment Bordallo's Prime Apartments.
See a complete listing of places to stay in Caldas da Rainha.
Featured Hotel in Caldas da Rainha
SANA Silver Coast Hotel
Hotel terrace, restaurant, parking & free WiFi.
Book Accommodation in Caldas da Rainha
Hotels in Portugal - Booking.com
Albufeira Hotels - Booking.com
Book Hotels in Algarve - Booking.com
Find Hotels in Lisbon - Booking.com
Search Hotels in Porto - Booking.com
Apartments & Hotels in Madeira - Booking.com
Hostels in Portugal - Booking.com
Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus, Tramcars, and Yellow Boat River Tour
Eating
There is a good choice of places to eat in Caldas da Rainha. Established eateries that have been around for some time include Marta's Place on Rua Fonte do Pinheiro 6A, Solar Dos Amigos at Estrada Principal 49, and Sabores D'Italia at Praça 5 de Outubro 40.
Our recommendations include:
Maratona Praça 25 de Abril 15
Casa do Bingre, Avenida Primeiro de Maio nº16 Loja A
A Lareira, Rua da Lareira, n.º 35
La Piazza Praça 5 de Outubro 14
Ti'Bino, Rua Francisco Almeida Grandela Nº141 A, Foz do Arelho
Távola, Rua Francisco Almeida Grandela 135, Foz do Arelho
The town is known for its desserts (Cavacas das Caldas) including such local favourites as Beijinhos das Caldas da Rainha, Beijinhos em Flor and Trouxas de Ovos.
Drinking
Bars and cafes include Baco's Wine Bar on Rua Herois da Grande Guerra and 120 - Gin Bar also on Praça 5 de Outubro.
List your restaurant/bar/hotel contact Advertising
The average high June temperatures for Portugal is between 22 degrees Centigrade and 26 degrees Centigrade.
Get more weather information for Portugal
Map
Nearby
Other places to visit in the Estremadura region of Portugal include Alcobaça, Batalha, Ericeira, Fátima, Foz do Arelho, Golegã, Leiria, Mafra, Nazaré, Óbidos, Ourém, Peniche, Santarém, Tomar, Torres Vedras and Vila Franca de Xira.