Funchal Guide
Portugal City Travel Guide: Funchal, Madeira
Funchal, meaning "fennel" in Portuguese is the largest town and capital of Madeira. With a population of around 111,000, Funchal is the sixth largest Portuguese city.
Lying in a natural amphitheater by the sea, squeezed between cliffs and the 1,000 meter high mountains behind, the city is the main place to stay, eat and drink and generally have fun on the island.
Located on the southern coast, the town is the also the major transport hub for getting around the rest of this beautiful island.
Funchal Attractions
The lively capital of Funchal reflects much of Madeira's rich history dating back to its founding in 1424. The main black and white paved square Praça do Município is flanked by many fine buildings including the eighteenth century Câmara Municipal (Town Hall) and the Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art). The museum has a collection of Flemish art from the 15-16th centuries, collected during the island's profitable sugar trade with mainland Europe.
Historic churches in Funchal include the Capela do Corpo Santo, dedicated to São Pedro Gonçalves Telmo (1190-1246), the patron saint of seafarers and fisher-folk, Santa Clara, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte, the Igreja Inglesa and the Santa Catarina Chapel in Santa Catarina Park (Parque de Santa Catarina).
Other places of interest in Funchal are the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmer's Market) - a bustling scene of exotic flowers, fresh fish and local vegetables. Come early in the morning to experience the market at its best.
Blandy's wine lodge is a Madeiran institution and often a must-see sight for tourists, especially Brits, on their holidays on the Portuguese island.
The Blandys are the last remaining family of all the original businesses of the Madeira wine trade to still own and manage their own wine company to this day. The Blandy business began in 1811 and the family have a reputation as modernizers who have been able to keep pace with the ups and downs of the Madeira wine business over the last two centuries and thus remain in control of their original enterprise - making fine Madeira wines. Guided tours of the wine lodge in various languages are available from Monday to Saturday. The tours end with a wine tasting.
The Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden) on Caminho do Meio and the Museum of Contemporary Art in São Tiago Fort are two other of Funchal's must-sees.
The garden was formerly the Bom Sucesso Estate owned by the Reid family (of Reid's Palace Hotel fame). It is now administered by the Regional Government of Madeira and opened in 1960. There are several separate parts to the garden. These include an area dedicated to indigenous and endemic plants from not only Madeira but also the Azores, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde. Loiro Park within the garden is an aviary with exotic cockatoos, parrots and parakeets.
Funchal and Madeira as a whole have many other fine gardens and parks. These include Monte Palace Tropical Garden, the Orchid Garden (Jardim Orquidea), Quinta Palmeira, Quinta Magnólia, Quinta Vigia and Palheiro Gardens.
History enthusiasts head for the 16th century Sé (Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption) and the Museu de Fotografia Vicentes at 43 Rua da Carreira, Funchal with a fascinating collection of old photographs of life on Madeira. Football fans make for the CR7 Museum near the marina - hagiographic homage to Cristiano Ronaldo, Madeira's sacred, sporting son made good.
The Quinta das Cruzes, once owned by a rich wine shipping family is full of works of art and priceless antiques. Santa Catarina Park lies between Avenida do Infante and Avenida Sá Carneiro and offers great views over Funchal. The park boasts large lawns, flower beds full of sub-tropical plants and statues of both Columbus and Henry the Navigator. The relaxing Jardim Municipal do Funchal opposite Blandy's is also worth a visit.
Driving north or travelling on the cable car from Funchal is the hill resort of Monte, which is often compared to Sintra near Lisbon on account of its fine quintas (palaces), churches, gardens and scenic hill-top location. The Monte Palace Tropical Garden is a favourite destination along with the Church of Nossa Senhora do Monte.
The Monte Palace Tropical Garden is on several levels and includes ponds and cascades, exotic trees and plants as well as a mineral museum. The garden was established by the businessman and art collector José Berardo (who also founded the excellent Berardo Collection Museum in the Centro Cultural de Belém in Lisbon). The garden includes two authentic Oriental gardens, one Chinese and one Japanese with references to the Age of Discovery that took Portuguese adventurers to both countries.
It is possible to return to Funchal on a unique form of transport - a wickerwork sledge (carro de cesto) on wooden runners pushed by two carreiros, or sledge drivers.
Tea at Reid's Hotel overlooking Funchal Bay is a step back in history to savour the traditions of the British aristocracy, who flocked to the island in the 19th century for its mild climate and stayed to foster Madeira's cottage industries of cane furniture, embroidery (bordados) and malmsey wine production.
Other famous Brits who have spent time here include former Prime Minsters Sir Winston Churchill who wrote volume four of his memoirs The Hinge of Fate at Reid's and Margaret Thatcher who honeymooned on Madeira at the Savoy Hotel. Captain Cook on The Endeavour in 1768 and George Bernard Shaw to learn to dance were also visitors.
The British are also particularly associated with Madeira wines, which were drunk throughout the old colonies as their taste improved with long sea journeys. Names such as Blandy, Cossart and Gordon are synonymous with the wine and it is possible to visit the wine lodges of D'Oliveiras in Rua dos Ferreiros, Henriques & Henriques in Camaro de Lobos and Blandy's in the Adegas de Sao Francisco (Avenida Arriaga, 28).
Funchal Tourist Office
Posto de Turismo do Funchal
Avenida Arriaga, 18
9000 Funchal
Tel: 236 161
Getting to + around Madeira
Air
There are flights to Funchal (Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport) from Lisbon, Porto, Faro (via Lisbon) and the Azores in Portugal and many cities in mainland Europe (from Amsterdam with KLM, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, London Gatwick, Madrid, Manchester (4 hours), Milan, Munich, Paris) including scheduled, charter and no-frills, budget flights.
British Airways (BA) and TAP Air Portugal fly the 3-hour flight from London. The airport (tel. 291 520 700) is 16 km east of Funchal in Santa Cruz, around 20 minutes by car or taxi.
Car Travel in Portugal
It is possible to drive around the island and through the interior using a hire car or taxi.
Bus Travel in Portugal
There are fairly frequent municipal buses in Funchal and less frequent services to the outlying villages including bus services to Ribeiro Frio, Machico, Faial, Sao Vicente etc. The main bus company on the island is Horários do Funchal which also runs Carros de São Gonçalo services.
Other smaller bus companies are EACL, SAM (Sociedade de Automóveis da Madeira) and Rodoeste. Rodoeste has buses to Porto Moniz, Sao Vincente and points west of Funchal. SAM operates the Aerobus and EACL (Empresa de Automóveis do Caniço) has services to Garajau and other places in the east of Madeira.
There is no central bus station in Funchal. The seafront on Avenida do Mar is a good place to find an Horários do Funchal bus. EACL buses leave from Rua Dom Carlos I. Several Rodoeste services depart from the Hotel Zone (Lido).
Fares for Horários do Funchal city buses are 1.95 € for a single ride or 4.50 € for a one-day pass. A 24-hour Giro 24 card costs 12.50 € and can be used on both city (urbano) and more long-distance (interurbano) buses.
Horários do Funchal Linha Eco electric buses are wheel-chair friendly.
Portugal Hotel & Hostel Accommodation
Featured Hotel in Madeira
Reid's Palace Hotel Madeira
Estrada Monumental 139
Funchal, Madeira
9000-098
An historical, world famous legend of luxury first opened for British aristocrats in 1891. Breathtaking views and beautiful sub-tropical gardens. 5 stars.
Other top end hotels on Madeira include the LTI Pestana Grand Ocean Resort Hotel, with spa, steam baths, saunas and indoor pool, the Pestana Casino Park Hotel & Casino, overlooking the Bay of Funchal, the Pestana CR7 Funchal above the Museu CR7 and The Cliff Bay - PortoBay boasting indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a 2-Michelin star restaurant and free Wi-Fi.
Budget options in Funchal include the 3 star Hotel Monte Carlo, the Hotel Catedral, also 3 star with air-conditioned rooms and terrace and the excellent, value for money Hotel Madeira.
See a full listing of hotels in Funchal and hotels in Madeira as a whole.
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Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus, Tramcars, and Yellow Boat River Tour
Eating
Funchal has a good variety of both local and international restaurants with seafood often a specialty. Espada (scabbard fish) served with bananas should be on visitors' menus. Bolo de caco is a type of local bread made from sweet potatoes.
The island is an exotic fruit lover's paradise: delicious bananas, blueberries, cactus figs, cherries, custard apples, grapes, passion fruit, pears and watermelons are all readily available in season.
Some recommended restaurants are the two Michelin-starred Il Gallo d'Oro (reservations essential) within The Cliff Bay Hotel, William with one Michelin star in Reid's Hotel and Restaurante Gavião Novo on Rua de Santa Maria, known for its excellent locally-caught seafood.
Also well worth visiting are Dona Amelia at Rùa Imperatriz D Amelia 83, the arty Dona Joana Rabo-de-Peixe and Indian Palace Restaurant for quality Indian food.
Yet more options in the medium price range are Hoyo Hoyo Sabores de Moçambique, Kampo by Chef Julio Pereira and O Americano on Rua da Carreira.
Drinking
Funchal has a good variety of bars which tend to get lively at the weekends. Cafe do Teatro (next to Municipal Theatre) is well-known. Also sample poncha, a very sweet local alcoholic drink made from sugar cane, orange or lemon juice and mixed with honey. Similar to "punch" in English and claimed to cure the common cold.
Some great bars in town include 23 Vintage on Rua de Santa Maria, Venda Velha for poncha and Living Room on Largo dos Varadouros which is bar, micro club and art space all in one funky venue.
Rua de Santa Maria is a lively street lined with many restaurants and bars plus some notable street art.
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Porto Santo
The island of Porto Santo (14 km by 5 km) reached by plane or ferry from Madeira is in stark contrast to its mountainous and lush neighbour 50 km to the south west.
The island has little natural vegetation but does have in abundance the golden sandy beaches which Madeira lacks - a 9 km long stretch to be precise on the south of the island.
The capital Vila Baleira has a museum celebrating Christopher Columbus, who came to the island in 1478 and later married Felipa Moniz Perestrelo, the governor's daughter. There is a scenic look-out point at Portela but the island's main attractions are its tranquility and crystal clear waters.
Funchal to Porto Santo Ferries
Ferries connect Funchal to the smaller island of Porto Santo. The crossing takes about 2 hours, 15 minutes. The ferry is operated by Porto Santo Line.
Book a ferry from Funchal to Porto Santo with Direct Ferries.
Other Places of Interest on Madeira
The more remote northern side of the island has some interesting villages including Porto Moniz to the west and Santana to the east - famous for its picturesque thatched cottages - palheiros. Porto Moniz is known for its natural swimming pools formed by volcanic lava and filled with Atlantic sea water. There is a safe area here reserved for kids.
"Madeira" means "wood" in Portuguese and the laurisilva forest that remains on the northern hills of Madeira once covered the whole island as well as The Azores and the Canary Islands, and was, at one time, widespread in Europe. Laurisilva forest, made up of laurel-leaved, evergreen hardwoods, supports a rich plant and animal diversity including bryophytes, ferns and flowering plants and the endemic Madeiran long-toed pigeon. The forest was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
A wide variety of leisure activities are available on the island including 45 holes of golf at Madeira's two courses: Santo da Serra Golf Club and Palheiro Golf Club as well as a casino, sailing, fishing, diving, walking and bird-watching.
Whale and dolphin watching is another popular activity on Madeira with a number of companies organizing boat tours where visitors have over a 90% chance of seeing either dolphins or whales year round.
Included on bus tours of the island is a trip to the highest skywalk at Cabo Girão.
Ilhas Desertas
16 km south east of Madeira are the uninhabited islands of Deserta Grande and Bugio which are now a nature reserve for the islands' birds, seals and poisonous spiders. Boats trips to visit the islands can be made in Funchal. 215 km (135 miles) south of Madeira are yet more deserted islands - the Ilhas Selvagens (Savage Islands) which remain a nature reserve of interest to scientists for their colonies of marine birds.
Local football teams in Madeira
Club Sport Marítimo Funchal
Founded 1910.
Stadium name: Estádio dos Barreiros capacity 8,900.
Marítimo are a fairly solid member of the Portuguese First Division and the team in red and green stripes have reached the heady heights of playing in European competition.
CD Nacional Madeira
Founded 1910.
Stadium name: Estádio Eng. Rui Alves capacity 3,000
Nacional were promoted to Portugal's First Division in 2002 and the team in black and white stripes have maintained their status since then and appeared in European competition.
Cristiano Ronaldo, presently playing in Saudi Arabia after leaving Manchester United following successful spells at Juventus, Real Madrid and Manchester United (again), was born on the island of Madeira and is the island's favourite son. Funchal Airport is now named after him and once had a rather unflattering statue of Cristiano (now replaced by a new version). The CR7 Museum (Museu CR7) displays Ronaldo's trophies won through his glittering career as a footballer for Manchester United, Real Madrid and Juventus. The floor of the museum is done in traditional calçada, pavement style. Above the museum is the recommended four star Pestana CR7 Funchal.
The average high June temperatures for Portugal is between 22 degrees Centigrade and 26 degrees Centigrade.
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