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Chaves Guide

Chaves

Chaves (meaning "keys"), is a small, spa town of around 18,000 people in the Trás-os-Montes region of northern Portugal. Chaves is about 10 km south of the Spanish border and a 30 km drive from the Galician town of Verín.

The entire municipality of Chaves has a population of around 40,000 people.

Historically, Chaves has long been of strategic importance, located on the Rio Tâmega and controlling the surrounding plain. The town was founded by the Romans as Aquae Flaviae in AD78 and subsequently contested by Visigoths, Moors, Spanish and French, hence the stout, stone walls, tall towers and imposing fortress in the town.

Igreja e Provedoria da Misericórdia de Chaves, Chaves.
Igreja e Provedoria da Misericórdia de Chaves, Chaves

The 140 meter-long Ponte Trajano (Trajan Bridge) dates from the reign of the Emperor Trajan in the early second century AD. The bridge is now pedestrianized and is one of the finest Roman bridges in Portugal, which was part of the Roman road from Braga to Astorga in Spain. On the eastern side of the river is the Baroque Igreja de Madalena (Igreja de S. João de Deus), built during the reign of the Portuguese king D. João V (1689-1750), while the main town is on the opposite bank.

The Termas de Chaves, set in the Parque Termal, is the town's spa (the hottest in Iberia at 73° C). Elderly visitors come to take the healing waters for a number of ailments including rheumatism. The waters can be drunk or taken via steam baths.

The Forte de São Francisco consists of a 16th century convent within the walls of the 17th century fortress. The upmarket, four-star Forte de São Francisco Hotel now occupies the convent, complete with swimming pool, tennis court, sauna and spacious rooms.

The Torre de Menagem, in the main square of Praça de Luís Camões, dates from the 14th century and now houses the Museu Militar, with the usual assortment of swords, armour and cannons and focus on Portugal's colonial wars and bloody participation in World War I. A combined ticket allows access to the nearby Museu da Região Flaviense with displays of archaeological finds from Roman and pre-Roman periods including coins, jewelry, tools and menhirs (standing stones).

The Town Hall (Câmera Municipal), Igreja Matriz (Parish Church; Church of Santa Maria Maior) and Pelourinho or pillory are in this central area with its pretty houses with wooden balconies on Rua Dirieta. The Igreja e Provedoria da Misericórdia de Chaves has some spectacular blue and white azulejos tile work on its interior walls.

Ponte de Trajano (Roman Bridge), Chaves.
Ponte de Trajano (Roman Bridge), Chaves
Igreja Matriz de Chaves, Chaves.
Igreja Matriz de Chaves (Parish Church), Chaves

The now disused Estação Ferroviária de Chaves (Chaves Railway Station) is a fine early 20th century building and was once the terminus of the narrow gauge Corgo Line that connected Chaves with Vila Real and Regua.

A new museum, which opened in 2015, is the Nadir Afonso Museum of Contemporary Art dedicated to the art of local son Nadir Afonso, the painter-architect, whose paintings in the style of geometric abstractionism, place him among the most important post-war Portuguese artists.

There are several places of interest within easy reach of Chaves including the village of Boticas known for its vinho dos mortos ("wine of the dead"), wine that is routinely buried underground for around two years. The practice dates from the French occupation from 1807-1809 when the villagers buried their wine in the sandy soil to avoid it being taken by the French and then found to their surprise it tasted better when they dug it up.

Chaves Tourist Office

Chaves Tourist Office.
Terreiro de Cavalaria.
Tel. 276 348 180
Hours: 9 am-12.30 pm; 2 pm-5.30 pm.

Getting to Chaves

Train Travel in Portugal

Chaves is no longer connected by railway from Vila Real with the line having closed in 1990.

Pelourinho de Chaves (Imóvel de Interesse Público), Chaves.
Pelourinho de Chaves (Chaves Pillory), Chaves
View of Chaves, Portugal.
View of Chaves

Car Travel in Portugal

The A24 motorway connects Chaves south to Viseu, Coimbra and Figueira da Foz.

Bus Travel in Portugal

Chaves is served by Auto-Viação Tâmega and Rodonorte bus services. The AV Tâmega bus station is north of the centre near the old train station.

Chaves has bus connections to Porto (2 hours, 15 minutes), Lisbon (6-7 hours), Braga (3 hours), Bragança (2-3 hours), Coimbra (3 hours, 45 minutes), Mirandela (2 hours), Montalegre (1 hour, 20 minutes) and Vila Real (1 hour, 15 minutes).

Portugal Hotel & Hostel Accommodation

Chaves has a variety of places to stay including the excellent Forte de São Francisco Hotel, the 3-star Hotel Aquae Flaviae, the 3-star Petrus Hotel, the 2-star Hotel Katia and the Florinda on Rua dos Açougues.

See here for a full listing of hotel accommodation in Chaves.

Featured Hotel

The Hotel Brites, Av. Duarte Pacheco, 112, 5400-223 Chaves, Portugal.

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Termas Romanas
Termas Romanas, thought to be the largest Roman medicinal baths in Iberia
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Goods From Japan delivered to your home or business
Adega Faustino, Chaves, Portugal.
Adega Faustino, Chaves

Eating

Chaves has a good number of recommended restaurants serving the local cuisine which is known for its smoked ham (presunto) and alheira sausage. Try Carvalho on Largo das Caldas or O Cândido on Rua da Tulha, 14. Adega Faustino, in the historic center, is an atmospheric place for a quick drink, lunch, petiscos (Portuguese tapas) or a more substantial evening meal. The establishment has been in business for over a century.

Drinking

Adega Faustino (Tel: 276 322 142) on Travessa Cândido dos Reis for local wines and petiscos in an atmospheric and historic space.

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Internet

WiFi is available in nearly all hotels in the area.

The average high June temperatures for Portugal is between 22 degrees Centigrade and 26 degrees Centigrade.
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Map

Map of Chaves, Portugal.
Map of Chaves, Portugal


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