Portugal City Travel Guide: Óbidos
Óbidos
Óbidos, population just over 3,000, is a historical and picturesque walled village in Estremadura, central Portugal, just an north of Lisbon by bus.
Set in magnificent countryside it is well-known for some fine white wines and its cherry liquor - ginjinha.
Óbidos can be over-run with day-trippers in high season, it is best to visit during the week or spend a night or two to enjoy its charms: white-washed houses complete with painted blue and yellow borders and colorful bougainvillea.
History
The town was an early Celtic settlement, Eburobricio. It was also a trading post for the Phoenicians.
There is also archaeological evidence of Roman settlement here, too.
At one time the sea reached up to where the escarpment is today before receding.
Dom Dinis rebuilt the castle, one of the finest castles in Portugal, though the walls were originally Moorish in origin.
He showed off his handiwork to his future queen Dona Isabel, who liked it so much the king gave her the town as a wedding present. This started a royal tradition that continued until the end of the monarchy in Portugal.
Parts of the town's walls were damaged in the Earthquake of 1755 though much of historical interest still remains.
Attractions
The site of Óbidos Castle (Castelo de Óbidos) was occupied by the Romans, Visigoths and later the Moors, who fortified the town in the 8th century.
The original Moorish castle was further expanded and strengthened after the Christian Reconquista. The Paço dos Alcaides (Palace of the Alcaldes) within the castle is now a luxury, 4 star pousada, the Pousada Castel de Óbidos The palace has some lovely architectural flourishes such as its Manueline windows. A passageway connects the palace and the Church of Santiago.
The main church - Igreja de Santa Maria - has a fine painted ceiling, a Renaissance tomb and seventeenth century azulejos - traditional Portuguese hand painted tiles. Visitors can walk the city walls - muro - built by the Moors for fine views of the town and surrounding countryside.
The paintings of Josefa de Óbidos (1630-1684), remarkable as a female artist at that time can be seen in the small Museu Municipal (Tel: 262 955 557) on Solar de Praça de Santa Maria.
The small Abílio Museum is dedicated to the life and work of the artist Abilio de Mattos e Silva (1908-1985).
The main street is Rua Direita entered through Porta da Vila. The street runs up to the castle and is lined with cafes, restaurants and souvenir stores.
The Porta da Vila is lined with beautiful azulejos tiles dating back to the 18th century. Inside is a tiny chapel, Nossa Senhora da Piedade, dedicated to the patron saint of the town.
A procession in her honor takes places with participants in period clothing carrying a portable shrine through the streets in October. The ceremony recommenced in 2019. Check with the Tourismo if it will take place if you are in the town in October.
About 1 km east of the modern town is Cidade Romana-Eburobrittium. These are the remains of a previous Roman city which is mentioned in the writings of Pliny the Elder. It is believed the city existed from the first century BC to the 5th century AD. The city once had a forum and baths. The remains have been excavated since the 1990's.
Beaches
The nearest beaches are at Praia da Foz do Arelho at the mouth of the lagoon - the Lagoa de Óbidos.
The small fishing town of Peniche on the coast still retains some vestiges of traditional life. The forbidding 16th Fortaleza de Peniche was a jail during the Salazar dictatorship. Buses take about 30-45 minutes from Óbidos.
Passaro (passarokite.com / Tel 351 963 923 539) is a kitesurf school at Lagoa de Óbidos. They offer kitesurfing lessons, improvement courses and also rent new kitesurfing equipment.
Óbidos Tourist Office
Tourist Office of Óbidos
Rua Direita
Tel. 262 955 060
10 am-1 pm; 2 pm-6 pm Monday-Friday
Getting to Óbidos
Train Travel in Portugal
There are infrequent, slow trains to Lisbon via Mira Sintra-Meclas.
It is easiest to arrive here, however, by bus from Lisbon (see below).
Car Travel in Portugal
From Lisbon take the A8 highway north and then the A21 to Ericeira. Journey time should be 40-50 minutes depending on traffic from Lisbon Airport.
Bus Travel in Portugal
The express Rapida Verde hourly bus to Óbidos runs from Campo Grande Bus Station in Lisbon to Óbidos and then on to Caldas da Rainha with Rodotejo.
The journey takes an hour with buses running between 7 am-12.30 am on weekdays with extra services during carnival.
Campo Grande is on the Lisbon metro.
Caldas da Rainha is just 20 minutes away by bus.
See www.rodotejo.pt and Rapida Verde for further details.
There are also more local buses to Caldas da Rainha (15 minutes), Nazaré (60 minutes) and Peniche (30 minutes).
Portugal Hotel & Hostel Accommodation
Óbidos offers a range of accommodation to suit all budgets.
The summer months of July and August are the peak season so you will need to book early to guarantee a room at this time.
Some recommendations are the four star Hotel Casa Das Senhoras Rainhas, the interesting, four star The Literary Man Óbidos Hotel and the three star Rainha Santa Isabel - Óbidos History Hotel.
Other places to stay in the town include the guesthouse Tree House, the Happy Home Óbidos and the Hotel Louro.
See a complete listing of places to stay in Óbidos
Featured Hotel in Óbidos
Pousada Castel de Óbidos
Some rooms have four-poster beds, chandeliers and original stone walls.
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Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus, Tramcars, and Yellow Boat River Tour
Eating
There is a wide choice of places to eat in Óbidos, though most are geared to the tourist market.
Eateries line Rua Direita and the streets running off it. Vila Infanta is long-established, family-run restaurant and serves typical Portuguese cuisine in a friendly atmosphere. Restaurante Pretensioso on Largo do Postigo comes well recommended and has outdoor seating.
Other recommended places include Alcaidaria-Mor with excellent wines and vegetarian options. A Nova Casa de Ramiro on Rua Porta do Vale has both vegetarian and vegan options and friendly service and a wonderful wine list.
Drinking
Bars and cafes abound in the centre of town. Try Pastelaria Dom Alfonso on Rua Direita for Pastel de Nata and coffee or Bar Ibn Errik Rex also on the same street.
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The average high June temperatures for Portugal is between 22 degrees Centigrade and 26 degrees Centigrade.
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Nearby
Other places to visit in the Estremadura region of Portugal include Alcobaça, Batalha, Caldas da Rainha, Ericeira, Fátima, Foz do Arelho, Golegã, Leiria, Mafra, Nazaré, Ourém, Peniche, Santarém, Tomar, Torres Vedras and Vila Franca de Xira.
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