Portugal City Travel Guide: Vila Franca de Xira
Vila Franca de Xira
Vila Franca de Xira in the Ribatejo region north east of Lisbon is intimately associated with Portuguese bull-fighting.
The breeding of the bulls and Lusitano horses in large farms (herdades) for the corridas de touros (bullfights) is the major activity in the surrounding countryside.
Located on the River Tagus, the town is 30 km northeast of Lisbon to which it is connected by both bus and train.
In fact, Vila Franca de Xira has become more and more a bedroom town for the capital over recent decades.
History
The area that now comprises the municipality of Vila France de Xira has a history dating back to Neolithic times. There followed the usual pattern of control by Romans, Visigoths and then later Moors.
It is thought the present town was founded by French knights of Portugal's first monarch, Afonso Henriques around 1200. Hence the name "Vila Franca" - charter town of the Franks.
That giant of the Age of Discovery and colonizer in India, Afonso de Albuquerque was born in nearby Alhandra.
Wellington's Lines of Torres Vedras which were built between 1809 and 1810 during the Peninsular War extend into Vila Franca de Xira. They stretched 40 km from the mouth of the Rio Sizandro on the Atlantic coast to Alhandra on the Tagus. Many of the stone forts are still visible today and walking the Lines has become something of a popular tourist attraction in recent times.
Attractions
The main attraction in Vila Franca de Xira is its bull-fighting heritage celebrate in two major festivals.
The first is the Festa do Colete Encarnado held in July. Its name references the "Red Waistcoats" worn by the horsemen (campinos) who breed the bulls and horses for the bullrings on the plains.
It begins with a parade of horsemen followed by bull-running through the streets then bull-fights in the town's Praça de Touros bull-ring.
The second is the similar Feira de Outubro that takes place in the first two weeks of October. There is more bull-running and a series of bull-fights in the Praça de Touros Palha Blanco.
Beware, there have been injuries and casualties at both events in the past!
Other attractions of a more peaceful nature include the Igreja do Mártir Santo São Sebastião founded by D. Sebastião in 1576. Of particular beauty are the altar and barrel vaulted ceiling with painted stucco. Also inside is a small museum of sacred art, a branch of the Museu Municipal de Vila Franca de Xira.
The Mercado Municipal Vila Franca De Xira is covered with fine azulejos tiles that have been recently restored and cleaned. The tiles depict the four seasons and the agricultural cycle of the surrounding countryside. The original building dates from 1929. It is open Monday to Saturday 7 am to 3 pm.
A couple of gardens flanking the River Tagus are a pleasant place to stroll. These are the Jardim Municipal Constantino Palha behind the station and Parque Urbano do Cevadeiro further south near the bull-ring.
Museums
The town has several museums of note. The Museu Municipal de Vila Franca de Xira is housed in an historic 18th century building and is the main museum of a network of smaller museums in the wider municipality. These smaller museums include the Núcleo Museológico de Alverca and the Museum of Sacred Art inside the Igreja do Mártir Santo São Sebastião.
On display are archeological finds from Roman times and earlier, as well as exhibits on bull-fighting and the agriculture of the region. The museum also puts on temporary exhibitions and maintains a museum shop.
The Museu do Neo-Realismo is a recent museum dedicated to neo-realism movement in Portugal. Visitors can enjoy seeing original documents, paintings, videos and explanatory wall panels.
The striking Fábrica das Palavras on the waterfront was designed by architect Miguel Arruda and is housed in a former rice-hulling factory. Now the redevelopment is home to the town's Municipal Library, a vibrant cultural center and cafe.
The town's bull-ring, the Praça de Touros Palha Blanco dates from 1901 and is a spectacular building in its own right. Inside is a museum dedicated to the area's rich heritage of bull-fighting.
Vila Franca de Xira Tourist Office
Rua Alves Redol
2600-097 Vila Franca de Xira
Tel. 263 285 605
Hours: Monday to Friday from 10 am to 6.30 pm and Saturday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6.30 pm.
Getting to Vila Franca de Xira
Train Travel in Portugal
Vila Franca de Xira Station is on the Linha da Azambuja and has trains to Santa Apolónia Station in Lisbon. Journey time is about 40 minutes.
There are onward connections to Roma-Areeiro, Entrecampos, Sete Rios and then west to Sintra Station in Sintra.
Car Travel in Portugal
From Lisbon take the A1 highway north to Vila Franca de Xira. Journey time should be 30 minutes depending on traffic from Lisbon. There are tolls on this route.
From Santarém take the A1 50 km south.
Bus Travel in Portugal
There are buses from Campo Grande Station on the Lisbon metro to Alenquer via Vila Franca de Xira operated by Boa Viagem.
The bus stops at Alverca, A-Dos-Potes, Arcena, Bom Sucesso, Sobralinho, Alhandra, Bairro Paraiso and Vila Franca de Xira.
Portugal Hotel & Hostel Accommodation
Vila Franca de Xira offers a small range of accommodation with just one large hotel, as well as several private villas and guest houses.
Some recommendations are the Leziria Parque Hotel, the main hotel in the town, Varandas da Serra and the Estação Real, a budget property with clean rooms. Casal Do Portinho is a holiday home some distance west of the town with a garden and outdoor pool.
See a complete listing of places to stay in Vila Franca de Xira.
Featured Hotel in Vila Franca de Xira
Leziria Parque Hotel
Avenida Barranco de Cegos 22, 2600-214 Vila Franca de Xira
Restaurant and two bars.
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Lisbon Hop-On Hop-Off Bus, Tramcars, and Yellow Boat River Tour
Eating
There is a decent choice of places to eat and drink in Vila Franca de Xira.
Try O Comboio near the station or O Forno on Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda.
March and April are the months to try the shad, a small river fish from the Tagus.
Drinking
The station area has a number of bars and restaurants to sit and relax.
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The average high June temperatures for Portugal is between 22 degrees Centigrade and 26 degrees Centigrade.
Get more weather information for Portugal
Maps
Nearby
Other places to visit in the Estremadura and Ribatejo regions of Portugal include Alcobaça, Batalha, Caldas da Rainha, Fátima, Foz do Arelho, Golegã, Leiria, Mafra, Nazaré, Óbidos, Ourém, Peniche, Santarém, Tomar, Ericeira and Torres Vedras.