A Small Piece of Portugal in Bangkok - Kudi Chin
Kudi Chin, also spelled Kudeejeen or Kudi Jeen, is a historic neighborhood located in Bangkok, Thailand. It is situated on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River, not far from the Grand Palace and Wat Arun.
Kudeejeen is renowned for its cultural heritage and is one of the oldest communities in Bangkok. It was initially settled by Portuguese traders and Catholic immigrants in the 17th century. Over time, it became a melting pot of various ethnic communities, including Thai, Portuguese, Chinese, and Malay, creating a unique blend of cultures and architectural styles.
History: Portugal - Thailand Relations
During the Age of Discoveries (Era dos Descobrimentos), Duarte Fernandes, an envoy sent by Afonso de Albuquerque became the first European to visit Siam (Thailand) from Malacca in 1511 during the Ayutthaya period.
Thereafter, a number of Portuguese traders and adventurers settled in the then capital of Ayutthaya. Some became mercenaries in the service of the King of Siam. A treaty was signed between the two nations which allowed the Portuguese to settle and trade. They brought firearms and produce from the New World in return as they did further east in both Macau and Japan.
With the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767, the capital moved to Thonburi (on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in present-day Bangkok) and the Portuguese were granted land to settle here along with other foreign communities by King Taksin. Here they built the Santa Cruz Church in the heart of their neighborhood and many of their nearly 2,000 Thai-Portuguese descendents still reside here to this day, giving the area a distinct, multicultural atmosphere.
The symbol of this unique, mixed heritage community is a rooster adapted from the Galo de Barcelos.
Baan Kudichin Museum
A good place to start any tour of the area is the Baan Kudichin Museum.
The museum explains Portugal's Age of Discoveries and voyages of exploration beginning with the colonization of the islands of Madeira and The Azores by 1430.
Gil Eanes (1395-?), Bartolomeu Dias (1457-1500) and Vasco da Gama (1460-1524) continued Portugal's exploration of the coast of Africa and into the Indian Ocean.
The ground floor of the free museum has a pleasant garden cafe where visitors can enjoy Sappayak Bun, a traditional Portuguese bun stuffed with minced pork, potatoes and chili peppers. There is also an azulejos tiled floor to admire before going upstairs to the museum itself on the second and third floors.
Thai-Portuguese relations are explained using wall panels, photographs and original objects collected from the local community. There are sections on the various new foodstuffs brought to Thailand by Portuguese traders. These include chili, now a staple of Thai cuisine, papaya, potatoes and tobacco. The Portuguese also introduced their delicious pastries and desserts in the 18th century.
Several Portuguese words also entered the Thai language including the words for bread, coffee, consul, salad, soap, and tea.
There are also exhibits on how the Thai-Portuguese community lived their daily lives including a reconstruction of a typical bedroom and kitchen.
271 Tedsaban 1 Road
Watkalaya, Thonburi, Bangkok 10600
Tel: 08 9924 2503
www: baankudichinmuseum.com
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 9.30 am to 5.30 pm; Monday closed.
Santa Cruz Church
The original Santa Cruz Church (วัดซางตาครู้ส) dates from around 1770 and was rebuilt in the mid-19th century. The present building dates from 1913-1916 and is designed in Renaissance Revival style. It remains at the very center of the community with the Santa Cruz School nearby.
The church was the main Catholic place of worship until the construction of the Assumption Cathedral in Bang Rak across the Chao Praya in 1821.
The church is closed to visitors except for daily mass.
There are two other Portuguese churches of note in Bangkok, the Holy Rosary Church in Talat Noi and the Immaculate Conception Church in Sam Sen.
Fusion Cuisine
There are several places to sample a unique mix of Thai-Portuguese cuisine in the tranquil, car-free, narrow alleys around the church and museum.
Advanced booking is required for Baan Sakul Thong, a well-known, family restaurant serving a fusion of Thai and Portuguese cuisine close to the museum.
219 Soi Kudee Jeen 3, Bangkok
Tel: 06 2605 5665
Several local bakeries serve delicious khanom farang ("foreigner cakes") - a type of crunchy raisin biscuit made from a Portuguese-Chinese recipe. Try the Thanusingha Bakery House (ร้านธนูสิงห์ ขนมฝรั่งกุฎีจีน) just down the alley from the museum.
Access & Accommodation
From BTS Taksin Station take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Saphan Phut. Then cross the river from Atsadang Pier to the Wat Kanlayanamit Pier and walk south. Alternatively, take the MRT to Sanam Chai Station, then take the ferry at Atsadang Pier to Wat Kanlayanamit Pier.
Book hotels near Santa Cruz Church with Booking.com
Gallery
Related
Visitors to Porto can experience the Age of Discovery at the excellent World of Discoveries museum.
The Portuguese Discoveries Wax Museum (Museu de Cera dos Descobrimentos) which opened in 2014 in Lagos on the Algarve brings the period to life through wax figures.