Mosteiro de Tibães, Braga
Mosteiro de São Martinho de Tibães, a few kilometers west from the center of Braga was previously the headquarters of the Benedictine order in Portugal and Brazil.
Set in beautiful grounds with numerous courtyards lined with large azulejos tiling, the monastery has a superb, richly ornate Rococo chapel and choir.
Unlike the more popular Bom Jesus, the Mosteiro de São Martinho de Tibães receives few visitors and even on a day in high season you may well, more or less, have the place to almost to yourself.
History
The Monastery of Tibães was founded in 1060 and it quickly became extremely wealthy as the monastery acquired lands all over the north of Portugal.
In 1567, the Mosteiro de Tibães became the mother house of the Benedictine order in Portugal and its then colony of Brazil. At the beginning of the next century, the Order's vast wealth was channeled into rebuilding the monastery. First the cloisters and then the magnificent church, which was constructed between 1628 and 1661 in the Mannerist style by Manuel Álvares and João Turriano. The gilded woodwork of the altarpiece is by the Braga-born sculptor and architect André Soares (1720-1769) and is considered a masterpiece. Later followed the chapter house, the monks' dormitory, the gate house, the guest house, and the library.
In the 1830's on the dissolution of the monastic orders in Portugal the monastery was closed and its contents inventoried and sold off. Some of the buildings then passed into private hands before the estate was acquired by the Portuguese state in 1986 and gradually restored. Some of the original contents were also repurchased. A guest house and restaurant were also opened on the site, thus restoring some of the original functions of the monastery to provide food and lodging to visitors.
Areas of the Monastery
The Cemetery Cloister was built in the first half of the 17th century and has Tuscan arches and a floor made up of the tombstones of monks. The azulejos tiling on the inner walls depicts the life of São Bento (St. Benedict).
The monastery church, in the shape of a Latin cross with three chapels on each side, is a riot of exuberant Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical elements with superb wood carving and gilding, shown in the colorful and often eccentric wooden figures that adorn the organ and the choir stalls.
The General's Gallery is another superb space. This large room served as the office of the General Abbots and its walls are lined with azulejos tiling and the portraits of popes, princes and philosophers. The impressive wooden ceiling is painted blue, gold and white.
Visitors can also enter the General Abbot's Quarters with its own private chapel and garden. The Guest's rooms are much more basic and are arranged along either side of a long corridor with a sturdy wooden ceiling. Each room was furnished with a bed, a few chairs and a chestnut wooden table. The toilet stalls (known as the "Secrets") are made completely from wood with the waste falling into a pit below. The laundry room, barber's and pharmacy are also here. The barber came to the monastery every 12 days to shave and tonsure the monks, use leeches for bloodletting and extract decayed teeth.
The Chapter Room is another highlight of a visit to the Mosteiro de Tibães. The beautifully painted wooden ceiling, adorned with a frieze of leaves, birds and the heads of angels dates from 1700. The rest of the room was rebuilt between 1783 and 1786 with new tiling and portraits of popes, monarchs and cardinals for the walls.
The large garden consists of several hectares planted with vineyards, fruit orchards and vegetables. Various paths lead through the grounds allowing for walks of varying lengths.
Access
If you are not arriving by hire car or taxi on weekdays there is a local Braga bus #50 from Praça Conde de Agrolongo close to the Museu dos Biscainhos to the monastery. There are buses at 9.30 am, 11.30 am, 2.30 pm and 4.30 pm. The journey takes 30 minutes.
On Saturdays take a #90 bus from Avenida Central with departures at 8.40 am, 9.40 am, 11.40 am, 12.40 pm, 1.40 pm, 2.40 pm, 3.40 pm. and 4.40 pm.
Mosteiro de Tibães (mosteirodetibaes.org in Portuguese)
Rua do Mosteiro
4700-565 Braga
Tel: 253 622 670
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday April to October - 10 am-7 pm; November to March - 10 am-7 pm. Closed 1 January, Easter Day, 1 May, 24 June and 25 December.
Admission: Fee (visitors can make use of an audio guide which explains the various rooms)
Hire a car in Braga to explore the northern region of Portugal.
Book Hotel Accommodation in Braga
Most accommodation is located in Braga city centre, recommendations include the Basic Braga by Axis near Braga Station, the budget, two star Hotel Dos Terceiros, the Hotel Dona Sofia and the Urban Hotel Estação, also close to the station.
There are several hotels close to Bom Jesus such as the Hotel do Elevador, Hotel do Parque, the Hotel do Largo and Hotel do Templo.
It is possible to stay at the Hospedaria Convento de Tibães in 9 simple rooms with excellent food from Monday-Friday during the months of August and September. (hospedariatibaes.com; Tel: 253 282 420)
See here for a full listing of hotels in Braga.
Hotels in Portugal - Booking.com
