Entertainment, Prices & Getting Around in Portugal
Journalist Mark Mcquinn visited Portugal for the first time
in February 2004. Here's what he found.
Food and Drink
Good food, big portions and fairly cheap as an overview. The fish was
great, in particular - we had it baked, fried, grilled and as a stew
- all delicious and the portions were always filled out with lots of
boiled potatoes and bread.
Cover charges
One thing it took a while to cotton on to is the cover charge ('couvert'
in Portuguese). This applies to all places, from greasy spoons to the
posh end. When you sit down you are immediately given a basket full of
bread, butter and cheese (usually a small whole soft sheep's cheese),
sometimes in more upmarket restaurants you are served salami, cheese
spread in individual portions and pates (also in individual portions).
You are then charged for this - it comes under 'couvert' in the
bill. Anything between 2 and 5 euros per head. Overall we had no complaints,
as the bread and cheese is excellent. A lot of Portuguese order a dry
white port as an aperitif to have with the bread and cheese. I took to
doing this as well and thoroughly enjoyed it.
For more information on Portuguese food
and cuisine click here
MacDonalds - Prices
Big Mac - 2.50 euros
McChicken Premier - 3.00 euros
Happy Meal - 2.75 euros
McCafe - 1 coffee + 1 cake 1.00 euros
Big Tasty - 3.20
Greek Mac - 4.10
Local cafes in Lisbon
Just to give an idea of prices, not particular recommendations of the
typical cheap and cheerful ones we tried in Lisbon.
Casa Das Sandes
Salads - 2.40 - 3.70 euros
Any soft drink + sandwich/baguette + muffin - 3.30 - 4.50 euros
Loja das Sopas
Various big soups and sandwiches from 3.35 to 5.00 euros
Coffee
The cheapest coffee we found was 0.50 euros per cup - from automatic
machines in garages, some shops and service stations. It's drinkable.
Up to 2.00 euros for large coffee with milk in Cafe Bernard -
a famous old coffee house - (bills itself as a 'Salao De Cha' - but the
vast majority were drinking coffee) on Rua Garrett - the most exclusive
street running up to the Barrio Alto (one of the main night life areas
in Lisbon). Top cakes at Cafe Bernard
- loads of cream, chocolate and fruit in them, plus an outdoor terrace
for watching the city life. Well worth it. Great interior - beautiful
wood and tile designs. Latin American street musicians serenade as you
sit on the terrace, though the police gave one guy a ticket, as we left,
which drew the hostility of the punters. It's a bit touristy there but
also plenty of Portuguese enjoying their coffee and cake and a relaxed
chat.
Just up from Cafe Bernard, another great old-style coffee house - Cafe
a Brasileira - very similar to cafe Bernard in terms of decor, outdoor
terrace and menu. We went there in the early evening - a lot of Portuguese
were having an aperitif after work - white and red ports both popular.
Again top coffee and cakes. Elsewhere in local cafes, we paid from 0.70
to 1.20 euros. All the coffee we tried good - no coloured water bilge.
Water
The cheapest option by a long way are the Mini Markets or Mini Mercado -
small bottles of minerals water there 0.09 cents! These are the small
supermarkets in town centres. A bit dusty and not big on fancy/glitzy
displays but all you need in terms of alcohol, soft drinks, bread, cheese,
cold cuts, tins, snacks etc. and cheaper than the big new out-of-town
supermarkets. Elsewhere in Lisbon cafes and shops we paid between 0.25
and 0.90 euros for a small bottle of mineral water. We bought packets
of real coffee to take back - from 0.98 to 2.25 euros- good quality and
cheaper than Britain.
Beer
The two main beers in Portugal are Super Bock and Sagres. Super Bock
sold draught in many bars - deliberately created to appear German in
bottle and label design and even the pump design when draught. It's a
decent brew. Asking for 'un Grand' and youget a pint. Otherwise if you
just ask for a 'cervejo' (beer) you get a small glass and you
look like a lass. Sorry, I mean you look like a sensible, reasonable
social drinker. The other main Portuguese ale is Sagres. We drank this
bottled in a few bars. Again it's a decent drink - always we chose it
above 'foreign' brews. Basically no need to go outside these two if you
want decent lager at a cheaper price than paying for foreign beers.
Wine
Even the cheap plonk is pretty good, so you cannot go wrong. Again
the mini markets (mercados) are the cheapest option. Paid 0.99
cents for table wine there and got good wines (well reviewed Douro wines)
for as little as 1.95. We bought a selection from mini markets ranging
from 0.99 to 1.95 euros to some at 2.40 euros. All were good - no chemicals
or other muck, and hence less hangover. In all of the mini supermarkets
there was a good range for less than 2 euros a bottle. In restaurants
you can pay from 2.50 euros bottom whack to 14.00 euros for a bottle
of top rated Douro white in a posh place on the coast at Cascais.
Port
Top quality stuff can be bought from the mini supermarkets for 6 euros
- we sampled Cockburns Extra Dry - dry is 'seco' in Portuguese,
if you are checking the labels - for 6.00 euros and paid the same for
a top bottle of 'Offley Branco Extra Seco'. Saw top rated bottles for
sale at 8 euros maximum. Good value.
For more information on Portuguese port and wines
click here
Top of the range
Cascais is the biggest
of the seaside towns up the coast from Lisbon -
a very pleasant place, with some great fish restaurants grouped on one
street - Rua das Flores - just off the main street. But Cascais is pricey
for Portugal - more than 50 euros for an enormous bream, which they bring
out to show you - easily enough for two though and with unlimited bread,
plus salad, boiled potatoes and vegetables.
Cheap and cheerful
Local cafes in Lisbon serve big
portions in general. For lunch, we had soup, grilled fish with boiled
potatoes, salad, a pint and a coffee for under 10 euros.
Traditional cooking
We tried baked fish encased in salt - traditional Portuguese way of
doing it. Delicious and not salty at all to eat. The waiter bought out
the fish on the baking tray and it was totally encrusted in a thick salt
covering. Took him a while to cut it all off - well worth it - it had
a delicious taste.
Tourist traps
Quite a few 'English-style' restaurants and pubs on the coast near Lisbon,
with pushy front-of-house people trying to persuade you to eat and drink.
Main meals in 'English-style' restaurants for 5-10 euros - fish and chips
featuring prominently.
Salami/Cheese
Both great value - much cheaper than in Britain and kept us going through
the day. Loads of different salamis and cheese available from mini supermarkets.
Huge slabs of cheese for around 2 euros and big salamis for between 1
and 1.50 euros.
Bars
Barrio Alto in Lisbon is
a great place for bar hopping: narrow, cobbled streets with a mixture
of locals - old folks gossiping, kids playing football, dusty corner
shops and trendy young Lisboetas, who have set up cafes, bars and clothes
and music shops. Most of the bars in Barrio Alto have music - lots of
ambient, trance and jazz. There is a good atmosphere in Barrio Alto -
relaxed and friendly and the scene goes on through the night. The friendly
Tequila Bar 'A Tasca' has a 4 euros special for a Tequila Sunrise.
We also tried a few bars around Cais Do Sodre station - a lively
and more earthy area with lots of local places, it's cheaper and a laugh.
There is an English pub almost opposite to Cais Do Sodre station - same
as English pubs anywhere and plenty of Brits hanging out. Even found
a place selling Bulgarian 'rakias' and 'wines' - the owner buys them
direct from sailors off the docks - top stuff and cheap - but renders
you unconscious quickly. Loads of food, drink and other goods from around
the world in small shops and bars down this way - all bought direct from
the docks. Cais Do Sodre is not overtly threatening but need to watch
your step slightly here - more than in the Barrio Alto.
Particular places worthy of note
Sports Bar
Located at the Jose Avalade Stadium
Complex, Sports Bar has two young friendly managers, both spoke
good English. There is a large selection of beers. They are already
doing promotions and will step these up for the finals - will run in
particular 3 for 2 drinks promotions - buy 3 and pay for 2. They laughed
and said they knew this might prove expensive when the English fans
came. They also have a happy hour. Clean and modern place with a moderately
priced food menu. Twenty television screens in the bar - a mix of small
and large flat screens. All matches in the finals will be screened.
Have live music at the weekends and karaoke. Worth checking out - particularly
if going to the Jose Avalade Stadium.
Fado
Plenty of fado places throughout the Barrio Alto. For the full range
get the free leaflet from Tourist offices called
'Casa Do Fado E Da Guitarra Portuguesa' Guide, which gives a brief overview
of fado and lists all the places in Lisbon putting on fado.
Top of the range - 'Senhor Vinho' and 'A Severa' are expensive
- easy to pay 50 euros per head minimum for table, food and drink. Went
to one recommended as a genuine 'adega' (tavern) popular with Portuguese.
Called 'Adega do Ribatejo', 23, Rua Diaro de Noticias, Barrio Alto. Down
to earth decor and atmosphere in general with mostly Portuguese customers,
who knew the words to the songs and joined in at every opportunity. Tables
packed together and only one toilet stall for men and one for women.
Singers and musicians right on top of you, which was fun - they do not
sing to you at tables or any of that bullshit. Waitress did a blinding
set of 3 songs just after serving me my soup. Powerful voice. Bouncer
did a couple - not bad - and the front-of-house guy opened the 3 sets.
Went from 8.30 to midnight and a professional with a great voice came
on from the second set onwards - top class. Paid 60 euros for two - all
in. Entrance, music, food and drink. Not bad for Barrio Alto fado places.
Included starters of bread, salami, cheese, a bottle of decent red wine,
big piece of hake with boiled potatoes and salad, grilled pork (2 huge
pieces) with chips and salad, a chocolate mousse and two coffees. Would
recommend the place for authenticity, price and decent food - but if
you want something a bit posher try the 2 pricey ones mentioned above
or the 'Luso' just up the street.
Cigarettes
Available from machines in many cafes as well as over the counter. Sold
in 20s in the machines and priced from 2.20 to 2.25 euros. All main international
brands available. Portuguese brand - SG - not much cheaper than big name
cigarette brands. Had to search quite hard for low tar cigarettes - SG
lights (tar 3/nicotine 0.3) but can get lighter ones from the international
brands, though they are not popular with most Portuguese.
Tourist Offices
All the people at the tourist offices and Ask Me Lisboa places speak
English and were friendly.
For a list of tourist offices in Portugal
click here
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